Mitred Conures aka Red-headed Conure aka Cherry-head Conures
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Red-headed Conures are the second largest of the conures. The Red-headed Conures aka Cherry-headed or Mitred Conures are one of the most beautiful conure species and are loved for their talking ability. They are popular pets as people enjoy their clowny disposition. However, they can be nippy at times (as most Conures can be). They tend to be noisy, like most Conures, and may not be the right companion pet for those sensitive to noise.
Red-headed Conures can take up to ten years to develop their full red-headed coloration, hence the drastic difference between individuals. Even with adult, fully-colored birds, there is a great variance in the amount of red they end up with.
Care and Feeding:
Conures love to climb and play and need to be provided with a cage that allows them to move around freely and toys to entertain themselves with. Please refer to the following websites for information:
- Optimal nutrition to keep your bird healthy
- Housing your bird
- The 3 Key Elements to Your Pet Bird's Happiness and Health
- Caring for your companion bird
Training and Behavioral Guidance:
- Conures are known for their loud voices, which can -- if left unchecked - turn into excessive screaming. They do discover their beaks as method of "disciplining us" once they are out of the "baby stage" and they can generally be somewhat naughty, and it really is important to learn to understand them and to guide their behavior before an undesirable behavior has been established. Undisciplined parrots will chew on electric wiring potentially causing house fires. They regard anything in your home as a "toy" that can be explored and chewed on; destroying items that you may hold dear or are simply valuable. Even a young bird that has not been neglected and abused requires proper guidance; this becomes even more challenging when it involves a rescued bird that may require rehabilitation.
- Web Resources: I put together web resources for you to help you understand your pet bird and properly direct him. Please visit this website for valuable tips on parrot behavior and training.
- If you are, as I am, a visual learner and prefer step-by-step instructions to train your pet, I recommend:
- the Parrot Training Course to teach your parrot to:
- Stop Biting
- Perform Tricks &
- Tame ANY SIZE bird you could possibly own
- and/or try the "Teach Your Parrot to Talk" Training Course.
- the Parrot Training Course to teach your parrot to:
Breeding / Reproduction:
These conures are fairly easy to breed. Below are the dimensions of nesting boxes usually used for these conures. However, the dimensions can vary widely, as they are influenced by the owner's and the birds' preferences. The preferences of the breeding birds can also be influenced by the size and type of nest-box / log in which the bird was hatched and reared.
If space allows, offering a choice of sizes and types of logs or nest-boxes, and placed in various locations within the aviary, can allow the parent birds to make their own choice. Once a pair has chosen a specific nest-box/log and been successful in it, offer that one to them each breeding season. Try and keep that one for their exclusive use. Once a pair has chosen its log or nest-box, the other ones can generally be removed. If the "spare" boxes are to be removed and moved to another flight, ensure the log / nest-box is cleaned to ensure the receptacle has the minimal contamination of mites, parasites and pathogens.
Log / Nest-box:
- Marcy Covault from Feathered Companions Aviary suggests using a deeper box, either a bootbox or a vertical grandfather box (18" - 24" deep). Some conures do accept cockatiel-sized boxes, but using a deeper box will reduce the conures' tendency to remove the shavings and lay their eggs on the bare wooden base.
- Diameter of entrance hole approx. 70 - 80 mm (or approx. 3 inches)
- Inspection hole: Square or round) 100 mm (or approx 4 inches)
- A Removable top / lid can be a useful access point for inspections and for cleaning.
- Location and height of log / nest-box = in a sheltered part of the aviary and at about 1.5 - 1.8 metres height, but not too close to the roof to cause heat problems in the hotter months
- Angle of log or nest box = 45 degrees through to vertical. Most boxes are vertical.
- Nesting log / nest-box material: Decomposed non-toxic saw dust, wood shavings or other suitable material/s.
- Incubation: Hen / cock / both share in incubating the eggs.
Nest inspection is generally not tolerated. If nest inspection is necessary, wait till both parents have left the nest. They can be aggressive and protective of the nest area when breeding.
For additional breeding-related information, please visit this website.
Sub-species:
Mitred Conures
Genus: Scientific: Aratinga ... English: Conures ...
Dutch: Wigstaartparkieten ... German: Keilschwanzsittiche
... French: Aratinga 
Species: Scientific:
Aratinga mitrata mitrata aka Psittacara mitrata mitrata
... English: Mitred Conure ... Dutch: Roodmaskeraratinga
... German: Rotmaskensittich ... French: Perruche à
masque écarlate Sub-Species: mitrata,
alticola CITES
II - Endangered Distribution: Central Peru, East of Andes, Eastern Bolivia, North-western
Argentina
Related Websites: Lexicon of Parrots ... Free-ranging Mitred Conures in Los Angeles ... Free-ranging parrot population of Haiku District, Maui, Hawaii
Chapman's Mitred Conures: Please scroll up for additional information
Genus: Scientific: Aratinga ... English: Conures ...
Dutch: Wigstaartparkieten ... German: Keilschwanzsittiche
... French: Aratinga Species: Scientific:
Aratinga mitrata alticola aka Psittacara mitrata alticola
... English: Chapman's Mitred Conure ... Dutch: Chapmans
Roodmaskeraratinga ... German: Cuzcosittich ... French:
Perruche à masque écarlate Chapman CITES II - Endangered Distribution: Cuzco Region, Central Peru
Related Websites: Lexicon of Parrots (Please scroll down to no. 2 - click on link to view photo.)
If you would like to add to or correct any of the above information, or would like to share with web visitors your own experiences, please e-mail the webmaster.
Photo contributions are welcome!
